TRE-FAQ - Lue tämä ensin...
Mun mielestä rajoittimia ei ole -00 mallissa......ja jos jostain ilmaantuu tieto että on...? niin sen täytyy olla Tre-modilla poistettavissa....MUTTA....oman tiedon mukaan 99-00 ei oo rajoittimia.....omaa ruiskuakin voi tiettyyn rajaan asti säätää,joten ei oo pakko hommailla nikkoja,eikä commareita.
Edited By Agostini on 1088432647
Edited By Agostini on 1088432647
Eiköhän noissa ole samanlailla sytytystä myöhästetty mitä muissakin vuosimalleissa. Eikös Falconer sitä omassaan testaillut ja pyörä lähti esim. kakkosvaihteella 2.5krpm kiihtymään kun napsautti TRE:n päälle?
Itse olen tuossa testaillut nyt pari viikkoa tuota ja varovaisen optimistinen olen ko. modiin, ainut että keuliminen ei onnistu kylmällä renkaalla ON-asennossa kun iskee tehot niin äkkiä takaseen --> SUTII.
Ajo on 1-4 vaihteilla tasaisempaa alle 4krpm, kaasuun vastaa huomattavasti herkemmin.
Itse olen tuossa testaillut nyt pari viikkoa tuota ja varovaisen optimistinen olen ko. modiin, ainut että keuliminen ei onnistu kylmällä renkaalla ON-asennossa kun iskee tehot niin äkkiä takaseen --> SUTII.
Ajo on 1-4 vaihteilla tasaisempaa alle 4krpm, kaasuun vastaa huomattavasti herkemmin.Ylinopeus pitää poissa pahanteosta
+200 MPH & +100 m/s CLUB FINLAND (224.4 mph + 108.37 m/s)
Jari // GSX1400R '0x tuned by TT-Motorsport
+200 MPH & +100 m/s CLUB FINLAND (224.4 mph + 108.37 m/s)
Jari // GSX1400R '0x tuned by TT-Motorsport
Isot pojat bomberweekend kiikalassa tuli kyseleen, että onko toi sun busa muuten vakio paitsi toi putkivaihdettu? sanoin että on siinä ems ei muuta. Sanoivat että, poista ihmeessä rajoittimet 1 ja 2 vaihteelta siinä ei ole kun 110 heppaa 1 ja 2 vaihteella, kun ne poistaa niin lähtee viivalta maineensa veroisesti. Elikkä se on kai sit toi tre. Mistä olette hommannu tre:n? ja mitä maksoi? onko niitä myös kytkimellä vai onko se oma viritys? helppiä!!!jarim kirjoitti:Eiköhän noissa ole samanlailla sytytystä myöhästetty mitä muissakin vuosimalleissa. Eikös Falconer sitä omassaan testaillut ja pyörä lähti esim. kakkosvaihteella 2.5krpm kiihtymään kun napsautti TRE:n päälle?
Itse olen tuossa testaillut nyt pari viikkoa tuota ja varovaisen optimistinen olen ko. modiin, ainut että keuliminen ei onnistu kylmällä renkaalla ON-asennossa kun iskee tehot niin äkkiä takaseen --> SUTII.
Meille tuli täältä: http://www.gixxer.com, Store, JSD Products. Voihan tuon tehdä kyllä itsekin mutta mä en raskinut alkaa raiskaamaan alkuperäisiä johtoja --> tilasin valmiin liittimillä ja kytkimellä varustetun (JSD-2).
Ylinopeus pitää poissa pahanteosta
+200 MPH & +100 m/s CLUB FINLAND (224.4 mph + 108.37 m/s)
Jari // GSX1400R '0x tuned by TT-Motorsport
+200 MPH & +100 m/s CLUB FINLAND (224.4 mph + 108.37 m/s)
Jari // GSX1400R '0x tuned by TT-Motorsport
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98-1085415583
Juu mulla on se J.Wallacen kytkimellä varustettu malli. Kytkin on sopivasti katteessa kiinni, joten sitä voi napsutella mielin määrin.jarim kirjoitti:Eiköhän noissa ole samanlailla sytytystä myöhästetty mitä muissakin vuosimalleissa. Eikös Falconer sitä omassaan testaillut ja pyörä lähti esim. kakkosvaihteella 2.5krpm kiihtymään kun napsautti TRE:n päälle?
Itse olen tuossa testaillut nyt pari viikkoa tuota ja varovaisen optimistinen olen ko. modiin, ainut että keuliminen ei onnistu kylmällä renkaalla ON-asennossa kun iskee tehot niin äkkiä takaseen --> SUTII.
Vempeleen toimivuus on todella helppo testata. "Ryyppy" päällä kun ajelee eli kaasu on vakio, ettei käsi siihen varmasti vaikuta. Katkaisinta napsuttelemalla sitten huomaa miten moottorin käytös muuttuu pienillä kierrokksilla ja pienimmillä vaihteilla. On-asennossa pyörä kiihtyy ja off-asentoon vaihtaessa se selvästi jarruttaa.
Vanha pieru
http://www.fastsjonny.tk kertoo seuraavaa, oisko apua hahmottamiseen:
Timing retard eliminator
Before you start with this modification I think it is good to think about what you really want. The Hayabusa has a ECM, an electronicbox what controls the right mapping (fuel/air ratio, ignitiontiming) at every throtlle-opening and gear. In this mapping there's also a ramaircompensation what will compensate the higher pressure because of ramair at higher speeds. For the newer models (2001/2002) there's also a speedrestriction built in. For all the models the first three gears have a retarded timing to prevent knocking' what could damage your engine. Normally the knocking will not occure when the right fuel and octane-ratio is used.
What is a TRE
From the gearbox there's a signal going to the ECU to let it know in what gear you are. The way it is done is very simple. Just a multiswitch in the gearbox with a set of resistors. Depending of the gear there is a resistor selected, what will give a geardepending voltage on the output to the ECU.
For the technicians here are the geardepending resistorvalues and the voltage-output to the ECU (between the pink and black wire):
Voltage Resistance to ground Gear
1.8V 560 Ohms 1st
2.26V 830 Ohms 2nd
2.99V 1.5k Ohms 3rd
3.68V 2.7k Ohms 4th
4.38V 6.8k Ohms 5th
4.70V 15k Ohms 6th
5.08V open on pink wire, connected through the blue wire for neutral light Neutral
The TRE , what is a simple resistor what is replacing the gearswitch-depending resistors will let your bike think that it's always in the same gear, normally the 4th, 5th or 6th gear. The result is (for most bikes, not for all) that the bike will run better in lower gears and the speedrestriction in 6th gear is gone.
You can buy them as plug-in system in a shop (G-Pack, Timing Retard Eliminator, etc..), but when you do it yourself you will save about $70, so for me it was easy to choose.
I started with a homemade TRE and removed it after a few months. But, after all the modifications I did, I installed the TRE again, just to get rid of the retarded timing. After the homemade TRE and the intelligent TRE I finally bought the ATRE, just because it is a good looking box and it is easy to switch between different gearsettings.
The simple TRE-modification
There's a wire coming from the Gear Position Sensor (GPS) in the Gearbox what will tell the ECM what gear you're using. You'll find a white connector just before the flat part in the main wiring under the tank at the left side of the bike with three wires in it. Take the pink wire out at the side that's going to the back of the bike, solder the first site of the 6k8 resistor on it and the other site of the 6k8 resistor to the black wire on the connector. You have to leave the black wire in, so I soldered an extra wire to the black one to have an extra groundwire. Ok, when you are finished with soldering you have to seal the resistor and solderings so that they would not get wet. You have to find a right place to put it. I used tire-wraps to keep the resistor on his place (see picture)
After you installed the TRE you can put the airbox on his place (don't forget the hoses and the connectors), tank down and have a ride. When you feel more stumble in the lower rpms range I think it is better to remove the TRE and stay stock. When the drivability is better then before, leave it in.
The intelligent TRE
On one of the Hayabusa boards there's also an intelligent TRE published by one of the members (see schematic) . Because the intelligent TRE only changes the first three gears, the ram-air compensation in 5th and 6th gear is still available.
You have to connect the pink wire coming from the front of the bike to the IN connection of the schema, the pink wire part going to the backsite of the bike must be connected to the OUT connection of the schema.
The most people are using the simple modification with a resistor, but when you have an electronic background you can make the intelligent TRE.
The ATRE
Another possibility for the people who want to play with the settings for different gears or for the people without electronic background is to buy the ATRE.
The ATRE is a box with the same features as the intelligent TRE, but with the extra feature that you can choose what settings you want to use for what gears. More info about the ATRE you can find on the website of SJL products (motorcycleradar.com). For their link see my linkpage.
Speedlimiter on 2002 models
When your only problem is the speedlimiter in the 6th gear, the easiest way to bypass it is by using a zener diode wired with the cathode to the pink wire and the anode to ground. You will need a voltage of 4.3volts and 250 mw should work fine. It will leave all gears up to sixth alone. As soon as the bike goes into sixth the diode will clamp the voltage to 4.3 volts so the ecm sees fifth gear selected so no speed limiter.
Timing retard eliminator
Before you start with this modification I think it is good to think about what you really want. The Hayabusa has a ECM, an electronicbox what controls the right mapping (fuel/air ratio, ignitiontiming) at every throtlle-opening and gear. In this mapping there's also a ramaircompensation what will compensate the higher pressure because of ramair at higher speeds. For the newer models (2001/2002) there's also a speedrestriction built in. For all the models the first three gears have a retarded timing to prevent knocking' what could damage your engine. Normally the knocking will not occure when the right fuel and octane-ratio is used.
What is a TRE
From the gearbox there's a signal going to the ECU to let it know in what gear you are. The way it is done is very simple. Just a multiswitch in the gearbox with a set of resistors. Depending of the gear there is a resistor selected, what will give a geardepending voltage on the output to the ECU.
For the technicians here are the geardepending resistorvalues and the voltage-output to the ECU (between the pink and black wire):
Voltage Resistance to ground Gear
1.8V 560 Ohms 1st
2.26V 830 Ohms 2nd
2.99V 1.5k Ohms 3rd
3.68V 2.7k Ohms 4th
4.38V 6.8k Ohms 5th
4.70V 15k Ohms 6th
5.08V open on pink wire, connected through the blue wire for neutral light Neutral
The TRE , what is a simple resistor what is replacing the gearswitch-depending resistors will let your bike think that it's always in the same gear, normally the 4th, 5th or 6th gear. The result is (for most bikes, not for all) that the bike will run better in lower gears and the speedrestriction in 6th gear is gone.
You can buy them as plug-in system in a shop (G-Pack, Timing Retard Eliminator, etc..), but when you do it yourself you will save about $70, so for me it was easy to choose.
I started with a homemade TRE and removed it after a few months. But, after all the modifications I did, I installed the TRE again, just to get rid of the retarded timing. After the homemade TRE and the intelligent TRE I finally bought the ATRE, just because it is a good looking box and it is easy to switch between different gearsettings.
The simple TRE-modification
There's a wire coming from the Gear Position Sensor (GPS) in the Gearbox what will tell the ECM what gear you're using. You'll find a white connector just before the flat part in the main wiring under the tank at the left side of the bike with three wires in it. Take the pink wire out at the side that's going to the back of the bike, solder the first site of the 6k8 resistor on it and the other site of the 6k8 resistor to the black wire on the connector. You have to leave the black wire in, so I soldered an extra wire to the black one to have an extra groundwire. Ok, when you are finished with soldering you have to seal the resistor and solderings so that they would not get wet. You have to find a right place to put it. I used tire-wraps to keep the resistor on his place (see picture)
After you installed the TRE you can put the airbox on his place (don't forget the hoses and the connectors), tank down and have a ride. When you feel more stumble in the lower rpms range I think it is better to remove the TRE and stay stock. When the drivability is better then before, leave it in.
The intelligent TRE
On one of the Hayabusa boards there's also an intelligent TRE published by one of the members (see schematic) . Because the intelligent TRE only changes the first three gears, the ram-air compensation in 5th and 6th gear is still available.
You have to connect the pink wire coming from the front of the bike to the IN connection of the schema, the pink wire part going to the backsite of the bike must be connected to the OUT connection of the schema.
The most people are using the simple modification with a resistor, but when you have an electronic background you can make the intelligent TRE.
The ATRE
Another possibility for the people who want to play with the settings for different gears or for the people without electronic background is to buy the ATRE.
The ATRE is a box with the same features as the intelligent TRE, but with the extra feature that you can choose what settings you want to use for what gears. More info about the ATRE you can find on the website of SJL products (motorcycleradar.com). For their link see my linkpage.
Speedlimiter on 2002 models
When your only problem is the speedlimiter in the 6th gear, the easiest way to bypass it is by using a zener diode wired with the cathode to the pink wire and the anode to ground. You will need a voltage of 4.3volts and 250 mw should work fine. It will leave all gears up to sixth alone. As soon as the bike goes into sixth the diode will clamp the voltage to 4.3 volts so the ecm sees fifth gear selected so no speed limiter.
Club 100 m/s
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BussiJussi
- Viestit: 1039
- Liittynyt: 31 Elo 2004, 16:13
- Paikkakunta: NILSIÄ
- Viesti:
-04 Busasta pitäs saada rajoitin poes, ja kiinnostas tietää eri vaihtoehdoista: Toimiiko pelkkä vastus "viritys", ja ohjeet sen tekoon, ja onko vaikutusta "pikkuvahteilla"? Vai pitääkö hommata valmis boxi, minkä merkkinen, ja mix? Kertokaa kokemuksianne, kun ois talvi aikaa viritellä,jotain sopivaa!! Kiitos etukäteen!!
Hayabusa GenII 100m/s Club Finland
100mph kelkalla
100km/h veneellä
Ihan ite ajoin, omilla katiskoilla!
Savolaista huippunopeus"toilailua" jo vuodesta 1999
"yli kolmepuolsataa, tutka ei näyttänyt"
"ei lukemaa, liian lujaa"
100mph kelkalla
100km/h veneellä
Ihan ite ajoin, omilla katiskoilla!
Savolaista huippunopeus"toilailua" jo vuodesta 1999
"yli kolmepuolsataa, tutka ei näyttänyt"
"ei lukemaa, liian lujaa"
Jos et jaksa ite tehä osta boxi sellainen missä sen voi pois kytkeä. Mutta jos jaksat sijoittaa 2e (50e sijasta) niin sitten kandee rakennella. Tuolla teeseitse ohje Ohje
Kaikenkarvainen sekatyöläinen..
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107-1089231881
Hmm... itse sorruin tosi helppoon vaihtoehtoon Tre Smart EE-Speediltä Hintaan 110e. Asennus tuli kaupan päälle.BussiJussi kirjoitti:-04 Busasta pitäs saada rajoitin poes, ja kiinnostas tietää eri vaihtoehdoista: Toimiiko pelkkä vastus "viritys", ja ohjeet sen tekoon, ja onko vaikutusta "pikkuvahteilla"? Vai pitääkö hommata valmis boxi, minkä merkkinen, ja mix? Kertokaa kokemuksianne, kun ois talvi aikaa viritellä,jotain sopivaa!! Kiitos etukäteen!!
